Ion gauge coated ceramics

Ion gauges work by using a hot tungsten filament to ionize gas molecules and then collect the ion current and convert that current to a reading in Torr, Pascal or millibar.

Over time the ceramics on the ion gauge feedthrough can become coated with tungsten or titanium. That coating is conductive and when the coating covers the entire length of the feedthrough then the resulting leakage current can affect the accuracy of the ion gauge or prevent it from working at all. The picture below shows an example of a coated ion gauge.

Usually once the ceramics are fully coated then the ion gauge needs to be replaced at a cost of $500.00 or more.

This blog post will show you how to remove the coating from the ceramics and restore normal operation of the ion gauge for about $15.00

The first thing that you will need to do is to buy some dental polishing tape.  I used some TDV diamond strips as shown below. You can get diamond polishing tape on Amazon.

With the filaments removed from the ion gauge, mount the ion gauge in a vise.  The ion gauge needs to be tight but not so tight that the flange warps.

Use the diamond strip in a back-and-forth motion to remove the coating from the ceramic.  Use a light touch as you want to remove the coating but not eat away at the ceramic any more than necessary.

Once you have the ceramic cleaned off, use a soft paint brush to clean the grid and to remove any small bits of ceramic from the flange. Note that all of the deposition does not need to be removed, but you want enough so that there is a gap on the ceramics which will eliminate any leakage current. The picture below shows the results after a few minutes of cleaning. Not very pretty, bit it does restore functionality.

Install a new filament set and you are good to go!  RBD Instruments sells ion gauge filaments for the PHI DGCIII controller.  Contact us for more information.

DGCIII Power Switch Fix

The power switch on the DGCIII Digital Ion Guage controller (sometimes referred to as the DIG III) which is used on many older Physical Electronics systems has a rocker switch that provides the mains AC voltage to the controller.

DGCIII power switch

This switch can get oxidation buildup over the period of many years and the result is that the DGCIII will not turn on.

That switch is no longer available, but this blog post will show you how to repair the switch and how to install a new switch if the existing switch can’t be repaired.

The power switch for the DGCIII comprises 2 sections that select the gain for the UHV, Bayard Alpert and extended ranges, and the higher current power switch section.

The power switch section is on the back end of the gang switch as shown in the picture below.

ON OFF rocker switch

Step one is to remove the two screws that attach the power switch to the gang shaft.  To do that, first unplug the power cord from the back of the DGCIII and remove the cover.

Remove the 4 boards that are inside the DGCIII. You do not need to remove the power supply board that is on the side of the DGCIII.

Use a small slotted screwdriver and remove the two screws.

Removing rocker switch section

Pull the power switch off the shaft.

Next, use a small screwdriver and lift the 3 tabs that hold the switch together.

Pull up on the 3 tabs

Separate the back from the power switch mechanism.

Remove back of rocker switch

Squirt some contact cleaner into the sides of the power switch and then use a needle nose pliers to rotate the flipper back and forth several times.  Add some more contact cleaner and repeat. Remove any excess contact cleaner with a wipe and Q-Tips.

Contact cleaner
Put contact cleaner in here
rotate contacts a few times

Use a meter and measure the resistance on the wires as shown in the picture below. When the flipper is to one side the contacts on the points shown below should have about 1 ohm of resistance, and they should be open going the other way.

Switch locations

If the switch checks out with an ohmmeter, then reverse the disassembly steps to reinstall the power switch section.

Replace the boards in DGCIII and replace the cover.

The DGCIII should turn on now when the power switch is turned ON.

If not, you can install a double pole single throw (DPST) panel switch in place of the rocker switch. You will need to drill a hole in the front panel of the DGCIII for the switch, and then move the wires over from the rocker switch section to the double pole single throw switch as shown in the above image.

Due to space limitations inside the DGCIII the DPST switch will need to be mounted sideways.  In this case the new DPST switch will turn the DGCIII on and off, and the original power switch will still control the ion gauge selection which is typically UHV. Make sure that the DPST front panel switch can handle 5 amps @120 VAC or more. A typical DPST switch is shown below.

DPST panel switch

If you need your DGCIII to be repaired, please contact RBD Instruments here – https://support.rbdinstruments.com/portal/en/signin