Removing the filaments in a PHI 04-548 X-ray Source

Posted on September 25, 2012 by Randy

This is part 1 of 2 – how to completely disassemble the PHI 04-548 X-ray source that has the new style filaments. Part 2 will be how to put it back together with new parts.

Here is a link to a video that shows the procedure step by step.

New Style filaments 04-548 X-ray source disassembly procedure

I have also included a written procedure that has additional information below.

Removing the filaments in a PHI 04548

Here is the text from the procedure if you don’t have Word on your PC:

This procedure and video will explain and show the steps required to disassemble the X-ray source.

Tools required:

5/8″ and 9/16″ open end combination wrench

9/16″ and ½” open end combination wrench

1/2″ and 7/16″ open end combination wrench

1/4″ and 5/16″ box end combination wrench

Small straight head screwdriver

Small Philips head screwdriver

096-6 Bristol wrench

048-4 Bristol wrench

Needle nose pliers

3/16″ Allen wrench

9/64″ Allen wretch or 168-6 Bristol wrench

Tweezers

0-80 screw or threaded rod

Gloves

Aluminum foil

Kim wipes

Isopropanol

Note: If you do not have Bristol wrenches you can get them from places like McMaster Car or directly from Bristol at http://www.bristolwrench.com/ phone number 503-371-9655

Procedure

Vent system and remove X-ray source from vacuum chamber. You can leave the X-Y-Z bellows attached to the chamber and just remove the source from the top flange on the X-Y-Z bellows.
Prepare a spot on a table top by laying down some clean aluminum foil and place the source on the table top. Clean your tools with isopropanol.
Remove the screws from one of the source covers so that you can access the water lines, remove the cover and remove the Teflon shield. Then loosen the larger 5/8″ ferrules so that you can disconnect the water lines that run from the water couplers to the source.
Remove the screws from the other cover and then remove the screw that connects the high voltage connector to the anode. Usually there is a 1K ohm 15kV resistor in series with that connection.
Remove the remaining shield and coupler flange.
Remove the remaining water lines (if any, some of the older sources only have one set of water lines).
Drain the water out of the source into a sink or waste basket.
Remove the 6 cap head screws that hold the anode in place. Note the position of the anode in and out lines with respect to the filament connector. On most systems, the exit line with be pointing away from the filament connector. Pull the anode out and place it on the aluminum foil. Use gloves when handling the anode.
Using a 096-6 Bristol wrench, remove the 4 screws that hold the end cap in place and remove the end cap. Be careful as you pull the end cap off as the filament retainer pins may fall out.
Remove the 2.75″ filament connector access flange by unscrewing the six 3/16″ Allen head screws.
Using the needle nose pliers and 048-4 Bristol wrench (RBD provides long version of this wrench that works well for this specific purpose) loosen the filament coupler set screws by turning them CCW a few turns. They do not need to be removed completely.
Remove the filament retainer pins using the 0-80 screw.
Remove the filaments by pulling them straight out of the source. The filament wires and ceramic tubes will come out with the filaments.
Remove the moly shield pins using the 0-80 screw. These are usually pretty tight and you may need to use the needle nose pliers to get some leverage.
Remove the moly shield by working it back and forth as you pull on it. If it is really tight you can use some isopropanol as a lubricant.
Remove the football ceramic pins using the 0-80 screws. These are also usually pretty tight.
Remove the football ceramic by using the needle nose pliers and gently working the ceramic back and forth while moving it forward and out.
Finally, remove the aluminum window from the end cap by using a tweezers to pull the retainer clip out. On some of the older sources that are used on double pass CMA system there will be a collimator shield as well as the retainer clip. Once the clip is removed you can push the window out of the end cap.

The source is now completely disassembled and ready to put new parts in.

Note: For most maintenance you will not need to completely disassemble the source. For example, if you only need to replace the aluminum window, just pull the end cap off.

If you only need to replace one or both filaments, just pull the end cap off and remove the anode.

To place an order for replacement parts, please visit our website at www.rbdinstruments.com or by calling us at 541 550-5016

Resources for Surface Analysis Techniques

Posted on September 18, 2012 by Randy

ASTM International, formerly known as the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), is a fantastic resource for Surface Analysis techniques including Auger Electron spectroscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, Secondary ion mass spectroscopy, and Energy-dispersive-ray spectroscopy.

Using the search tool on the ASTM website you can easily find standards for anything from specimen mounting and preparation to data interpretation. Simply type in a keyword such as Auger, XPS, SIMS, EDX or SEM and you will get a listing of all standards with that keyword.

You can purchase the single standard that you are interested in or sign up for one of the many subscription options that are available.

If you can’t find what you need on their website you can contact ASTM at 1-877-909-ASTM

04-303 or 06-350 Ionizer replacement procedure video

Posted on September 13, 2012 by Randy

The procedure to replace the ionizer on a 04-303 or 06-350 ion gun is one of those things that once you see it done, you know how to do it. You can expect to replace your ionizer anywhere from once every few years to once every few months, depending on how much sputtering you do. For most people it will be about once every 6 months.

It takes about 10 minutes to replace the ionizer once the system has been vented, and this video takes you through the process from start to finish:

TIP: Be careful not to drop the flat head ionizer retainer screws into the source as you remove or install the ionizer assembly. If you do, they usually fall down to the inside of the ion gun wall and you can get them out using a screw driver or wire with some tape on the end of it (clean the screw afterwards). If you can’t see them, you will need to pull the source off and find them for sure as there is a slight chance that they can fall into the differential pumping port and eventually work their way down to the turbo pump. Turbo pumps blades that are spinning at 60,0000 RPMs or more do not like to get hit with small stainless steel screws.

RBD Instruments provides a rebuilding service for the 04-303 and 06-360 ionizers as well as an Argon bottle gas refill service. Our filaments typically last for 1100 hours under normal operating conditions.

In addition to the 04-303 ionizers, we also provide filaments for the 04-300, 04-191/2 and 04-161/2 ion guns.

For more information, please visit the Ion Gun Filaments and Grids section of our website.