Ion pump element rebuild procedure

Ion Pump Element Tech Tip – Flip the plates

After a number of years it becomes necessary to replace the ion pump elements used on surface analysis instrumentation such as X-ray Photoelectron spectrometers (XPS), Auger (AES), and Secondary Ion Mass spectrometers (SIMS). But what if you can’t afford the cost of new ion pump elements? Depending on how worn out the plates are, you may simply be able to “flip” the plates.

This procedure is written for the DI (Differential Ion) pump elements used on most PHI surface analysis and Perkin Elmer vacuum systems. However, it can also be applied to other ion pump elements such as Varian, which are used on many general-purpose vacuum systems.

Ion pump elements have three basic components: magnets, an anode, and two cathodes. For the DI pumps, one cathode plate is made out of tantalum and the other cathode plate is made out of titanium. Using cathodes made from these two materials provides good pumping stability for both inert and active gases. The size of the pump is determined by the number of elements used. For example, a Perkin-Elmer 120 l/s ion pump has 4 elements and a 220 l/s ion pump has 8 elements.

ion pump element

Ion pump element

The magnets cause electrons, which are created as part of the ionization process, to spiral in the anode. This in turn increases the probability of a collision with a gas molecule. When an electron collides with a gas molecule, the gas becomes ionized and the molecule is accelerated into a cathode. Over time, the cathodes become sputtered away and the ceramics that isolate the anode become coated and conductive. Also, flakes can form and accumulate, which can cause arcing from the anode to ground. As a result, the pump elements’ performance is greatly reduced and the elements need to be removed and inspected.

Usually, the pump elements need to be replaced. However, if the plates are not sputtered all the way through, it is possible to simply “flip” the plates, clean the anode, and replace the anode-isolation ceramics. Functionally, the ion pumps will be good as new. They will not last as long as new ion pump elements because the plates will not be as thick as new elements. You can, though, often get an extra 2-to-5 years of usage from the elements depending on your base vacuum, gas load, etc.

In the image below, you can see the anode, cathodes, and the heavily coated anode-isolation ceramics. Before you disassemble the elements, make a note of the position of the anode tab. One of the elements usually has the tab on the opposite side from the others. You will reassemble the elements so the tab is in the same location.

coated ion pump element

Coated ion pump element

Disassembling and Reassembling the Ion Pump Elements

Wear gloves and use clean tools when disassembling and reassembling the ion pump elements.

  1. Use a slotted screwdriver and a 5/16″ open end wrench to remove the screws and nuts that hold the elements together. TIP: Use isopropanol as a lubricant to prevent the nuts from seizing.
  2. Use a small flat-tip screwdriver and a pair of pliers to bend the ceramic shield tabs up.
  3. Lift each ceramic shield out of its support bracket to remove the anode-isolation ceramics.

The graphic below shows the components once the pump elements have been disassembled: the anode plate, the cathode plates, and the support brackets

.ion pump anode and cathodes

The image below shows the cathode after it has been sputtered. The sputtered areas look like pin holes. In this example, the sputtering is only about ½ of the way through the plate, which means that there is a lot of material left.

Sputtered  ion pump cathode plate

Sputtered ion pump cathode plate

As shown in the picture below, we can see that the cathode is not sputtered all the way through when we flip it over; there are no holes on this side of the cathode. Because the center of the sputtered area will most likely not line up perfectly when the plate is flipped, the lifetime of the pump will be extended.

un-sputtered ion pump cathode

Un-sputtered ion pump cathode

The picture below is an example of a plate that is sputtered all the way through. In this case, the ion pump elements need to be replaced and not rebuilt.

sputtered ion pump cathode

Sputtered ion pump cathode

The picture below shows a clean ceramic and a coated ceramic. RBD Instruments provides the new ceramics. Please visit the Parts – Vacuum related section of our website at www.rbdinstruments.com.

ion pump ceramics

Ion pump ceramics

Once you have disassembled the elements, the rebuild procedure is very simple:

  1. While wearing gloves, use a clean wire brush to remove any flakes from the plates, anode, support brackets, and ceramic shields. Note that you do not need to remove all of the deposits and discoloration on the parts. Just make sure that whatever remains will not come off easily. The important thing is that the active portion of the plates is now fresh, the ceramics are new, and there are no loose flakes that can cause shorting.
  2. Install new ceramics. TIP Use a channel lock pliers to crimp the tabs on the ceramic shields that hold the ceramics in place.
  3. Flip the plates so that the fresh side is facing the anode. Because the tantalum plate is thinner the titanium plate, most elements will have a thin steel plate on the tantalum side of the cathode. The tantalum plate will be noticeably heavier than the steel plate.
    Make sure that you put the clean tantalum side towards the anode. The picture below shows the dirty element after the plates have been flipped and reassembled. It may not look pretty, but it will work as well as a new element.
rebuilt ion pump element

Rebuilt ion pump element with flipped plates

Assemble the plates and support brackets, as shown in the picture above. Make sure that the support brackets are holding the anode snuggly as you tighten the screws and nuts.

 Installing the Elements Back into the Pump Well

  1. Before installing your rebuilt or new ion pump elements, use a wire brush and a vacuum cleaner to clean the pump well and remove all flakes that are inside the pump well. You can also wipe the inside of the pump well with a Kim wipe or lint-free cloth and some isopropanol. You want the pump well to be as clean as possible as any remaining flakes can cause shorting in the elements, which would require that you disassemble the ion pump again.
  2. If possible, bake your vacuum chamber into the turbo pump for 4 hours.
  3. Let the ion pump cool down before you try to start the ion pumps. Removing as much water vapor as possible will make the ion pumps much easier to start.
  4. Start the ion pump.
  5. Pump the chamber until you are in low 10-7 or low 10-8 Torr range.
  6. With the ion pumps on, bake the chamber again for an additional 8-to-24 hours.

If you need more information on this procedure or would like to order the ceramics or new ion pump elements, please contact us.

Here are some pictures that show an ion pump being lowered:

Dropping the pump well

Dropping the pump well

Pump well down

Pump well down

Operation of the DGC III Digital Ion Gauge Control

One of the more common questions that we get concerning the DGC III digital ion gauge control (also known as the DIG III) is how to enter the set point values. We created this video to demonstrate the basic operation of the DIG III including the set points.  For advanced operations, please refer to the DGC III ion gauge manual.

The PHI DIGIII Digital ion gauge controller provides an indication of the vacuum in the chamber, as well as 4 set points which are used to interlock certain system functions. A common problem with the DIG III is that the set points reset to zero after the DIG III is turned off or loses power. In most cases, that problem is the result of a worn out DIGIII battery and is something that the user can easily replace themselves – just be aware that the battery is soldered onto the set point board inside the DIG III.

The RBD Instruments part number for the DIG III Set point battery is BA3.6RE.

DGC III Set point values

These are the typical values used on most PHI surface analysis systems

After about 8 to 10 years, the set point operation can become intermittent due to oxidation of the contacts on K901 through K904 on the set point board.

Possible symptoms include:

  • The electronic card rack power drops out intermittently.
  • The X-ray source will not operate even though set point 3 indicates that it is on.

To repair this problem, simply remove the covers from the set point relays K901-K904 on the set point board and clean the contacts with some fine sandpaper or emery cloth.

Set point relays

Set point relays

DIGIII Setpoint Bypass Jumper

For other more serious DIG III problems, RBD Instruments can repair or exchange your defective control. For more information visit our website or call us at 541-550-5016

Installing new parts in a PHI 04-548 or 04-500 X-ray Source: New Style Filaments

This procedure and video will explain and show the steps required to reassemble the X-ray source that has the new style filaments.

04-548 Filament Installation Video

Refer to this RBD TechSpot blog post for the disassembly procedure and tools required.

04-548 X-ray source reassembly procedure

This procedure assumes that you have disassembled the source completely. If you only needed to replace the filaments, anode or window then you will have only partially disassembled the source and only need to follow the parts of the procedure that apply.

1. Let’s also assume that you have removed the filament feedthrough as shown in the video. Use a new copper gasket and install the flange on the shorter of the two 2.75″ flanges with the couplers facing towards the top of the source. Initially, tighten the bolts finger tight and check the spacing of the couplers with respect to the inner wall of the source tube. If necessary, remove the flange and adjust the height on the coupler mounts (loosen the screw and nut) up or down in order to maximize the spacing between the anode and the couplers as shown in the drawing below. Then install the feedthrough and tighten the bolts. Use anti-seize lubricant on the ends of the bolts if they are dry.

x-ray source tube
Looking inside the X-ray tube

2. Install the football ceramic. If you are installing a new football ceramic (RBD Part Number 602229PR) then you may need to file the edges of the moly blocks that are attached to the ceramic in order for the ceramic to fit inside the tube. It is a snug fit, if necessary use isopropanol as a lubricant.  Line up the 4 holes inside the moly blocks with the holes in the x-ray tube and use the 0-80 screw or tool to insert the football ceramic retainer pins. If necessary, tap the pins gently until they are flush with the tube.

3. Install the moly shield. This is also a snug fit. You will need to work the moly shield back and forth to get it to slide inside the tube. Use isopropanol as a lubricant if needed. Line up the 4 holes in the moly block with the holes in the x-ray tube and using the 0-80 screw or tool, insert the beryllium copper retainer pins into the holes and press them in until they are flush with the outside of the tube. The thread side of the retainer pins face out from the tube.

4. Cut the new filament wires. Lay the new filament next to the old filament on the clean working surface so that you can compare the length of the old filament wire with the new one. You can also remove the ceramic tube (and metal tube) from the old filament and move those over to the new filament, then cut the excess filament wire. Typically, the wires extend about ¼” past the end of the ceramic. It is very important that you cut the wires the same length and same orientation as the old filament. One wire is longer than the other wire and it you cut them incorrectly then the filament will not be able to connect to the coupler and it will unusable. To reiterate, the length of the wires are not the same on both filaments, they are mirrored.

5. Install the filaments. With the ceramics and metal tubes installed on the filament wires, carefully slide the filament wires into the holes in the moly block and guide the filament wires into the couplers as you slide the filament all the way in. The set screws in the couplers should be loose but not all the way out. I have found that a dental tool with a hook on the end is very helpful for positioning the wires into the coupler. RBD Part Number 622275RE

6. Install the filament retainer pins. Once you have the wires guided into the filament couplers, then use the 0-80 screw or tool and install the filament retainer pins.

7. Tighten the filament coupler set screws. Use the needle nose pliers to hold the coupler and then tighten the set screw using the 048-4 Bristol wrench. The set screws need to be very snug, but not too tight. You will feel the wire compress as you tighten the screw. Also note that the wires should stick out about 1/8″ from the back of the couplers and that the couplers should be parallel with the tube body.

8. Install the anode. Clean the anode if needed with a wire brush – note that the coating is only about 10uM thick so you do not want to use very much pressure on the brush. Just finger tight and only a few strokes. You may not be able to clean it completely, but getting most of any back carbon deposit off will increase the x-ray flux and give you a higher count rate. If you are too aggressive then you will take the anode down to the copper and it will need to be replaced. The anodes will naturally wear down to the copper with normal usage. If you need an exchange anode or want to recoat yours, use RBD Part Number 04548ANODWEXRE Slide a new copper gasket over the anode and insert it into the source all the way into the football ceramic. It should extend past the moly block by .010 to .020 inches and there should be a little bit of spring in the anode when it is all the way into the football ceramic. See the video for more details and adjust the anode if necessary before installing the 6 cap head screws. Use anti-size lubricant on the ends of the screws if needed.

9. Install a new window in the end cap. I recommend that you use the old window to practice on until you get the hang of it. Install the window into the end cap with the mesh facing down. Install the C clip to hold the window in place. Use a sharp tipped tweezers. I also use an exacta knife to help guide the clip and hold the window down. This part of the procedure is best performed without previously consuming excessive amounts of caffeine. RBD Part Number 602508PR

10. Install the end cap over the filaments and secure it using the 4 cap head screws.

11. Use a new gasket and install the 2.75″ filament coupler access flange. Once the source is mounted on the chamber, tighten this flange some more (as you will be able to apply more force when it is mounted on the chamber than when the source is on the bench). Also recheck the tightness of the anode screws.

12. Finally, once the system is pumped back down, bake out the system to remove all the water vapor from the x-ray source. Follow the outgas and high voltage conditioning procedures in the 04-548 manual. Contact RBD Instruments if you need more information.

To place an order for replacement parts, please visit our website at www.rbdinstruments.com or by calling us at 541 550-5016